Tutorial – Arduino and PCF8591 ADC DAC IC
Learn how to use the NXP PCF 8591 8-bit A/D and D/A IC with Arduino in chapter fifty-two of my Arduino Tutorials. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here.
Updated 17/06/2013
Introduction
Have you ever wanted more analogue input pins on your Arduino project, but not wanted to fork out for a Mega? Or would you like to generate analogue signals? Then check out the subject of our tutorial – the NXP PCF8591 IC. It solves both these problems as it has a single DAC (digital to analogue) converter as well as four ADCs (analogue to digital converters) – all accessible via the I2C bus. If the I2C bus is new to you, please familiarise yourself with the readings here before moving forward.
The PCF8591 is available in DIP form, which makes it easy to experiment with:
You can get them from the usual retailers. Before moving on, download the data sheet. The PCF8591 can operate on both 5V and 3.3V so if you’re using an Arduino Due, Raspberry Pi or other 3.3 V development board you’re fine. Now we’ll first explain the DAC, then the ADCs.
Using the DAC (digital-to-analogue converter)
The DAC on the PCF8591 has a resolution of 8-bits – so it can generate a theoretical signal of between zero volts and the reference voltage (Vref) in 255 steps. For demonstration purposes we’ll use a Vref of 5V, and you can use a lower Vref such as 3.3V or whatever you wish the maximum value to be … however it must be less than the supply voltage. Note that when there is a load on the analogue output (a real-world situation), the maximum output voltage will drop – the data sheet (which you downloaded) shows a 10% drop for a 10kΩ load. Now for our demonstration circuit:
Note the use of 10kΩ pull-up resistors on the I2C bus, and the 10μF capacitor between 5V and GND. The I2C bus address is set by a combination of pins A0~A2, and with them all to GND the address is 0×90. The analogue output can be taken from pin 15 (and there’s a seperate analogue GND on pin 13. Also, connect pin 13 to GND, and circuit GND to Arduino GND.
To control the DAC we need to send two bytes of data. The first is the control byte, which simply activates the DAC and is 1000000 (or 0×40) and the next byte is the value between 0 and 255 (the output level). This is demonstrated in the following sketch (download):
// Example 52.1 PCF8591 DAC demo // http://tronixstuff.com/tutorials Chapter 52 // John Boxall June 2013
#include #define PCF8591 (0x90 >> 1) // I2C bus address
void setup()
{
Wire.begin();
}
void loop()
{
for (int i=0; i<256; i++)
{
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591
Wire.write(0x40); // control byte - turn on DAC (binary 1000000)
Wire.write(i); // value to send to DAC
Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission
}
for (int i=255; i>=0; --i)
{
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591
Wire.write(0x40); // control byte - turn on DAC (binary 1000000)
Wire.write(i); // value to send to DAC
Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission
}
}
Did you notice the bit shift of the bus address in the #define statement? Arduino sends 7-bit addresses but the PCF8591 wants an 8-bit, so we shift the byte over by one bit.
The results of the sketch are shown below, we’ve connected the Vref to 5V and the oscilloscope probe and GND to the analogue output and GND respectively (click image to enlarge):
If you like curves you can generate sine waves with the sketch below. It uses a lookup table in an array which contains the necessary pre-calculated data points (download):
// Example 52.2 PCF8591 DAC demo - sine wave // http://tronixstuff.com/tutorials Chapter 52 // John Boxall June 2013
#include #define PCF8591 (0x90 >> 1) // I2C bus address
uint8_t sine_wave[256] = {
0x80, 0x83, 0x86, 0x89, 0x8C, 0x90, 0x93, 0x96,
0x99, 0x9C, 0x9F, 0xA2, 0xA5, 0xA8, 0xAB, 0xAE,
0xB1, 0xB3, 0xB6, 0xB9, 0xBC, 0xBF, 0xC1, 0xC4,
0xC7, 0xC9, 0xCC, 0xCE, 0xD1, 0xD3, 0xD5, 0xD8,
0xDA, 0xDC, 0xDE, 0xE0, 0xE2, 0xE4, 0xE6, 0xE8,
0xEA, 0xEB, 0xED, 0xEF, 0xF0, 0xF1, 0xF3, 0xF4,
0xF5, 0xF6, 0xF8, 0xF9, 0xFA, 0xFA, 0xFB, 0xFC,
0xFD, 0xFD, 0xFE, 0xFE, 0xFE, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF,
0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFE, 0xFE, 0xFE, 0xFD,
0xFD, 0xFC, 0xFB, 0xFA, 0xFA, 0xF9, 0xF8, 0xF6,
0xF5, 0xF4, 0xF3, 0xF1, 0xF0, 0xEF, 0xED, 0xEB,
0xEA, 0xE8, 0xE6, 0xE4, 0xE2, 0xE0, 0xDE, 0xDC,
0xDA, 0xD8, 0xD5, 0xD3, 0xD1, 0xCE, 0xCC, 0xC9,
0xC7, 0xC4, 0xC1, 0xBF, 0xBC, 0xB9, 0xB6, 0xB3,
0xB1, 0xAE, 0xAB, 0xA8, 0xA5, 0xA2, 0x9F, 0x9C,
0x99, 0x96, 0x93, 0x90, 0x8C, 0x89, 0x86, 0x83,
0x80, 0x7D, 0x7A, 0x77, 0x74, 0x70, 0x6D, 0x6A,
0x67, 0x64, 0x61, 0x5E, 0x5B, 0x58, 0x55, 0x52,
0x4F, 0x4D, 0x4A, 0x47, 0x44, 0x41, 0x3F, 0x3C,
0x39, 0x37, 0x34, 0x32, 0x2F, 0x2D, 0x2B, 0x28,
0x26, 0x24, 0x22, 0x20, 0x1E, 0x1C, 0x1A, 0x18,
0x16, 0x15, 0x13, 0x11, 0x10, 0x0F, 0x0D, 0x0C,
0x0B, 0x0A, 0x08, 0x07, 0x06, 0x06, 0x05, 0x04,
0x03, 0x03, 0x02, 0x02, 0x02, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01,
0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x01, 0x02, 0x02, 0x02, 0x03,
0x03, 0x04, 0x05, 0x06, 0x06, 0x07, 0x08, 0x0A,
0x0B, 0x0C, 0x0D, 0x0F, 0x10, 0x11, 0x13, 0x15,
0x16, 0x18, 0x1A, 0x1C, 0x1E, 0x20, 0x22, 0x24,
0x26, 0x28, 0x2B, 0x2D, 0x2F, 0x32, 0x34, 0x37,
0x39, 0x3C, 0x3F, 0x41, 0x44, 0x47, 0x4A, 0x4D,
0x4F, 0x52, 0x55, 0x58, 0x5B, 0x5E, 0x61, 0x64,
0x67, 0x6A, 0x6D, 0x70, 0x74, 0x77, 0x7A, 0x7D
};
void setup()
{
Wire.begin();
}
void loop()
{
for (int i=0; i<256; i++)
{
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591
Wire.write(0x40); // control byte - turn on DAC (binary 1000000)
Wire.write(sine_wave[i]); // value to send to DAC
Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission
}
}
And the results (click image to enlarge):
For the following DSO image dump, we changed the Vref to 3.3V – note the change in the maxima on the sine wave:
Now you can experiment with the DAC to make sound effects, signals or control other analogue circuits.
Using the ADCs (analogue-to-digital converters)
If you’ve used the analogRead() function on your Arduino (way back in Chapter One) then you’re already familiar with an ADC. With out PCF8591 we can read a voltage between zero and the Vref and it will return a value of between zero and 255 which is directly proportional to zero and the Vref. For example, measuring 3.3V should return 168. The resolution (8-bit) of the ADC is lower than the onboard Arduino (10-bit) however the PCF8591 can do something the Arduino’s ADC cannot. But we’ll get to that in a moment.
First, to simply read the values of each ADC pin we send a control byte to tell the PCF8591 which ADC we want to read. For ADCs zero to three the control byte is 0×00, 0×01, ox02 and 0×03 respectively. Then we ask for two bytes of data back from the ADC, and store the second byte for use. Why two bytes? The PCF8591 returns the previously measured value first – then the current byte. (See Figure 8 in the data sheet). Finally, if you’re not using all the ADC pins, connect the unused ones to GND.
The following example sketch simply retrieves values from each ADC pin one at a time, then displays them in the serial monitor (download):
// Example 52.3 PCF8591 ADC demo // http://tronixstuff.com/tutorials Chapter 52 // John Boxall June 2013
#include #define PCF8591 (0x90 >> 1) // I2C bus address
#define ADC0 0x00 // control bytes for reading individual ADCs #define ADC1 0x01 #define ADC2 0x02 #define ADC3 0x03
byte value0, value1, value2, value3;
void setup()
{
Wire.begin();
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop()
{
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591
Wire.write(ADC0); // control byte - read ADC0
Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission
Wire.requestFrom(PCF8591, 2);
value0=Wire.read();
value0=Wire.read();
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591 Wire.write(ADC1); // control byte - read ADC1 Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission Wire.requestFrom(PCF8591, 2); value1=Wire.read(); value1=Wire.read();
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591 Wire.write(ADC2); // control byte - read ADC2 Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission Wire.requestFrom(PCF8591, 2); value2=Wire.read(); value2=Wire.read();
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591 Wire.write(ADC3); // control byte - read ADC3 Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission Wire.requestFrom(PCF8591, 2); value3=Wire.read(); value3=Wire.read();
Serial.print(value0); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print(value1); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print(value2); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print(value3); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.println();
}
Upon running the sketch you’ll be presented with the values of each ADC in the serial monitor. Although it was a simple demonstration to show you how to individually read each ADC, it is a cumbersome method of getting more than one byte at a time from a particular ADC.
To do this, change the control byte to request auto-increment, which is done by setting bit 2 of the control byte to 1. So to start from ADC0 we use a new control byte of binary 00000100 or hexadecimal 0×04. Then request five bytes of data (once again we ignore the first byte) which will cause the PCF8591 to return all values in one chain of bytes. This process is demonstrated in the following sketch (download):
// Example 52.4 PCF8591 ADC demo // http://tronixstuff.com/tutorials Chapter 52 // John Boxall June 2013
#include #define PCF8591 (0x90 >> 1) // I2C bus address
byte value0, value1, value2, value3;
void setup()
{
Wire.begin();
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop()
{
Wire.beginTransmission(PCF8591); // wake up PCF8591
Wire.write(0x04); // control byte - read ADC0 then auto-increment
Wire.endTransmission(); // end tranmission
Wire.requestFrom(PCF8591, 5);
value0=Wire.read();
value0=Wire.read();
value1=Wire.read();
value2=Wire.read();
value3=Wire.read();
Serial.print(value0); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print(value1); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print(value2); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print(value3); Serial.print(" ");
Serial.println();
}
Previously we mentioned that the PCF8591 can do something that the Arduino’s ADC cannot, and this is offer a differential ADC. As opposed to the Arduino’s single-ended (i.e. it returns the difference between the positive signal voltage and GND, the differential ADC accepts two signals (that don’t necessarily have to be referenced to ground), and returns the difference between the two signals. This can be convenient for measuring small changes in voltages for load cells and so on.
Setting up the PCF8591 for differential ADC is a simple matter of changing the control byte. If you turn to page seven of the data sheet, then consider the different types of analogue input programming. Previously we used mode ’00′ for four inputs, however you can select the others which are clearly illustrated, for example:
So to set the control byte for two differential inputs, use binary 00110000 or 0×30. Then it’s a simple matter of requesting the bytes of data and working with them. As you can see there’s also combination single/differential and a complex three-differential input. However we’ll leave them for the time being.
Conclusion
Hopefully you found this of interest, whether adding a DAC to your experiments or learning a bit more about ADCs. We’ll have some more analogue to digital articles coming up soon, so stay tuned. And if you enjoy my tutorials, or want to introduce someone else to the interesting world of Arduino – check out my new book “Arduino Workshop” from No Starch Press.
In the meanwhile have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column? And join our friendly Google Group – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other – and we can all learn something.
Book – “Arduino Workshop – A Hands-On Introduction with 65 Projects”
Over the last few years I’ve been writing a few Arduino tutorials, and during this time many people have mentioned that I should write a book. And now thanks to the team from No Starch Press this recommendation has morphed into my new book – “Arduino Workshop“:
Although there are seemingly endless Arduino tutorials and articles on the Internet, Arduino Workshop offers a nicely edited and curated path for the beginner to learn from and have fun. It’s a hands-on introduction to Arduino with 65 projects – from simple LED use right through to RFID, Internet connection, working with cellular communications, and much more.
Each project is explained in detail, explaining how the hardware an Arduino code works together. The reader doesn’t need any expensive tools or workspaces, and all the parts used are available from almost any electronics retailer. Furthermore all of the projects can be finished without soldering, so it’s safe for readers of all ages.
The editing team and myself have worked hard to make the book perfect for those without any electronics or Arduino experience at all, and it makes a great gift for someone to get them started. After working through the 65 projects the reader will have gained enough knowledge and confidence to create many things – and to continue researching on their own. Or if you’ve been enjoying the results of my thousands of hours of work here at tronixstuff, you can show your appreciation by ordering a copy for yourself or as a gift
You can review the table of contents, index and download a sample chapter from the Arduino Workshop website.
Arduino Workshop is available from No Starch Press in printed or ebook (PDF, Mobi, and ePub) formats. Ebooks are also included with the printed orders so you can get started immediately.
19/06/2013 – (my fellow) Australians – currently the cheapest way of getting a print version is from the Book Depository … as they have free delivery from the UK.
In the meanwhile have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column? And join our friendly Google Group – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other – and we can all learn something.
Arduino and KTM-S1201 LCD modules
Learn how to use very inexpensive KTM-S1201 LCD modules in this edition of our Arduino tutorials. This is chapter forty-nine of a series originally titled “Getting Started/Moving Forward with Arduino!” by John Boxall – A tutorial on the Arduino universe. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here.
Introduction
After looking for some displays to use with another (!) clock, I came across some 12-digit numeric LCD displays. They aren’t anything flash, and don’t have a back light – however they were one dollar each. How could you say no to that? So I ordered a dozen to try out. The purpose of this tutorial is to show you how they are used with an Arduino in the simplest manner possible.
Moving forward – the modules look like OEM modules for desktop office phones from the 1990s:
With a quick search on the Internet you will find a few sellers offering them for a dollar each. The modules (data sheet) use the NEC PD7225 controller IC (data sheet):
They aren’t difficult to use, so I’ll run through set up and operation with a few examples.
Hardware setup
First you’ll need to solder some sort of connection to the module – such as 2×5 header pins. This makes it easy to wire it up to a breadboard or a ribbon cable:
The rest of the circuitry is straight-forward. There are ten pins in two rows of five, and with the display horizontal and the pins on the right, they are numbered as such:
Now make the following connections:
- LCD pin 1 to 5V
- LCD pin 2 to GND
- LCD pin 3 to Arduino D4
- LCD pin 4 to Arduino D5
- LCD pin 5 to Arduino D6
- LCD pin 6 to Arduino D7
- LCD pin 7 – not connected
- LCD pin 8 – Arduino D8
- LCD pin 9 to the centre pin of a 10k trimpot – whose other legs connect to 5V and GND. This is used to adjust the contrast of the LCD.
The Arduino digital pins that are used can be changed – they are defined in the header file (see further on). If you were curious as to how low-current these modules are:
That’s 0.689 mA- not bad at all. Great for battery-powered operations. Now that you’ve got the module wired up, let’s get going with some demonstration sketches.
Software setup
The sketches used in this tutorial are based on work by Jeff Albertson and Robert Mech, so kudos to them – however we’ve simplified them a little to make use easier. We’ll just cover the functions required to display data on the LCD. However feel free to review the sketches and files along with the controller chip datasheet as you’ll get an idea of how the controller is driven by the Arduino.
When using the LCD module you’ll need a header file in the same folder as your sketch. You can download the header file from here. Then every time you open a sketch that uses the header file, it should appear in a tab next to the main sketch, for example (click to enlarge):
There’s also a group of functions and lines required in your sketch. We’ll run through those now – so download the first example sketch, add the header file and upload it. Your results should be the same as the video below:
So how did that work? Take a look at the sketch you uploaded. You need all the functions between the two lines of “////////////////////////” and also the five lines in void setup(). Then you can display a string of text or numbers using
ktmWriteString();
which was used in void loop(). You can use the digits 0~9, the alphabet (well, what you can do with 7-segments), the degrees symbol (use an asterix – “*”) and a dash (use - “-”). So if your sketch can put together the data to display in a string, then that’s taken care of.
If you want to clear the screen, use:
ktmCommand(_ClearDsp);
Next – to individually place digits on the screen, use the function:
ktmPrnNumb(n,p,d,l);
Where n is the number to be displayed (zero or a positive integer), p is the position on the LCD for the number’s (the positions from left to right are 11 to 0…), d is the number of digits to the right of the decimal point (leave as zero if you don’t want a decimal point), and l is the number of digits being displayed for n. When you display digits using this function you can use more than one function to compose the number to be displayed – as this function doesn’t clear the screen.
To help get your head around it, the following example sketch (download) has a variety of examples in void loop(). You can watch this example in the following video:
Conclusion
So there you have it – an incredibly inexpensive and possibly useful LCD module. Thank you to Jeff Albertson and Robert Mech for their help and original code.
In the meanwhile have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column? And join our friendly Google Group – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other – and we can all learn something.
Tutorial: Arduino and the MSGEQ7 Spectrum Analyzer
This is a tutorial on using the MSGEQ7 Spectrum Analyser with Arduino, and chapter forty-eight of a series originally titled “Getting Started/Moving Forward with Arduino!” by John Boxall – A tutorial on the Arduino universe. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here.
Updated 30/01/2013
In this article we’re going to explain how to make simple spectrum analysers with an Arduino-style board. (Analyser? Analyzer? Take your pick).
First of all, what is a spectrum analyser? Good question. Do you remember what this is?
It’s a mixed graphic equaliser/spectrum analyser deck for a hi-fi system. The display in the middle is the spectrum analyser, and roughly-speaking it shows the strength of different frequencies in the music being listened to – and looked pretty awesome doing it. We can recreate displays similar to this for entertainment and also as a base for creative lighting effects. By working through this tutorial you’ll have the base knowledge to recreate these yourself.
We’ll be using the MSGEQ7 “seven band graphic equaliser IC” from Mixed Signal Integration. Here’s the MSGEQ7 data sheet (.pdf). This little IC can accept a single audio source, analyse seven frequency bands of the audio, and output a DC representation of each frequency band. This isn’t super-accurate or calibrated in any way, but it works. You can get the IC separately, for example:
and then build your own circuit around it… or like most things in the Arduino world – get a shield. In this case, a derivative of the original Bliptronics shield by Sparkfun. It’s designed to pass through stereo audio via 3.5mm audio sockets and contains two MSGEQ7s, so we can do a stereo analyser:
As usual Sparkfun have saved a few cents by not including the stackable header sockets, so you’ll need to buy and solder those in yourself. There is also space for three header pins for direct audio input (left, right and common), which are useful – so if you can add those as well.
So now you have a shield that’s ready for use. Before moving forward let’s examine how the MSGEQ7 works for us. As mentioned earlier, it analyses seven frequency bands. These are illustrated in the following graph from the data sheet:
It will return the strengths of the audio at seven points – 63 Hz, 160 Hz, 400 Hz, 1 kHz, 2.5 kHz, 6.25 kHz and 16 kHz – and as you can see there is some overlap between the bands. The strength is returned as a DC voltage – which we can then simply measure with the Arduino’s analogue input and create a display of some sort. At this point audio purists, Sheldonites and RF people might get a little cranky, so once again – this is more for visual indication than any sort of calibration device.
However as an 8-pin IC a different approach is required to get the different levels. The IC will sequentially give out the levels for each band on pin 3- e.g. 63 Hz then 160 Hz then 400 Hz then 1 kHz then 2.5 kHz then 6.25 kHz then 16 kHz then back to 63 Hz and so on. To start this sequence we first reset the IC by pulsing the RESET pin HIGH then low. This tells the IC to start at the first band. Next, we set the STROBE pin to LOW, take the DC reading from pin 3 with analogue input, store the value in a variable (an array), then set the STROBE pin HIGH. We repeat the strobe-measure sequence six more times to get the rest of the data, then RESET the IC and start all over again. For the visual learners consider the diagram below from the data sheet:
To demonstrate this process, consider the function
readMSGEQ7()
in the following example sketch (download):
// Example 48.1 - tronixstuff.com/tutorials > chapter 48 - 30 Jan 2013 // MSGEQ7 spectrum analyser shield - basic demonstration
int strobe = 4; // strobe pins on digital 4 int res = 5; // reset pins on digital 5
int left[7]; // store band values in these arrays int right[7];
int band;
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(115200);
pinMode(res, OUTPUT); // reset
pinMode(strobe, OUTPUT); // strobe
digitalWrite(res,LOW); // reset low
digitalWrite(strobe,HIGH); //pin 5 is RESET on the shield
}
void readMSGEQ7()
// Function to read 7 band equalizers
{
digitalWrite(res, HIGH);
digitalWrite(res, LOW);
for(band=0; band <7; band++)
{
digitalWrite(strobe,LOW); // strobe pin on the shield - kicks the IC up to the next band
delayMicroseconds(30); //
left[band] = analogRead(0); // store left band reading
right[band] = analogRead(1); // ... and the right
digitalWrite(strobe,HIGH);
}
}
void loop()
{
readMSGEQ7();
// display values of left channel on serial monitor
for (band = 0; band < 7; band++)
{
Serial.print(left[band]);
Serial.print(" ");
}
Serial.println();
// display values of right channel on serial monitor
for (band = 0; band < 7; band++)
{
Serial.print(right[band]);
Serial.print(" ");
}
Serial.println();
}
If you follow through the sketch, you can see that it reads both left- and right-channel values from the two MSGEQ7s on the shield, then stores each value in the arrays left[] and right[]. These values are then sent to the serial monitor for display – for example:
If you have a function generator, connect the output to one of the channels and GND – then adjust the frequency and amplitude to see how the values change. The following video clip is a short demonstration of this – we set the generator to 1 kHz and adjust the amplitude of the signal. To make things easier to read we only measure and display the left channel:
Keep an eye on the fourth column of data – this is the analogRead() value returned by the Arduino when reading the 1khz frequency band. You can also see the affect on the other bands around 1 kHz as we increase and decrease the frequency. However that wasn’t really visually appealing – so now we’ll create a small and large graphical version.
First we’ll use an inexpensive LCD, the I2C model from akafugu reviewed previously. To save repeating myself, also review how to create custom LCD characters from here.
With the LCD with have two rows of sixteen characters. The plan is to use the top row for the levels, the left-channel’s on … the left, and the right on the right. Each character will be a little bar graph for the level. The bottom row can be for a label. We don’t have too many pixels to work with, but it’s a compact example:
We have eight rows for each character, and the results from an analogueRead() fall between 0 and 1023. So that’s 1024 possible values spread over eight sections. Thus each row of pixels in each character will represent 128 “units of analogue read” or around 0.63 V if the Arduino is running from true 5 V (remember your AREF notes?). The sketch will again read the values from the MSGEQ7, feed them into two arrays – then display the required character in each band space on the LCD.
Here’s the resulting sketch (download):
// Example 48.2 - tronixstuff.com/tutorials > chapter 48 - 30 Jan 2013 // MSGEQ7 spectrum analyser shield and I2C LCD from akafugu
// for akafugu I2C LCD #include #include "TWILiquidCrystal.h" LiquidCrystal lcd(50);
// create custom characters for LCD
byte level0[8] = { 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b11111};
byte level1[8] = { 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b11111, 0b11111};
byte level2[8] = { 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111};
byte level3[8] = { 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111};
byte level4[8] = { 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111};
byte level5[8] = { 0b00000, 0b00000, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111};
byte level6[8] = { 0b00000, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111};
byte level7[8] = { 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111, 0b11111};
int strobe = 4; // strobe pins on digital 4 int res = 5; // reset pins on digital 5
int left[7]; // store band values in these arrays int right[7];
int band;
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
// setup LCD and custom characters
lcd.begin(16, 2);
lcd.setContrast(24);
lcd.clear();
lcd.createChar(0,level0); lcd.createChar(1,level1); lcd.createChar(2,level2); lcd.createChar(3,level3); lcd.createChar(4,level4); lcd.createChar(5,level5); lcd.createChar(6,level6); lcd.createChar(7,level7);
lcd.setCursor(0,1);
lcd.print("Left");
lcd.setCursor(11,1);
lcd.print("Right");
pinMode(res, OUTPUT); // reset pinMode(strobe, OUTPUT); // strobe digitalWrite(res,LOW); // reset low digitalWrite(strobe,HIGH); //pin 5 is RESET on the shield }
void readMSGEQ7()
// Function to read 7 band equalizers
{
digitalWrite(res, HIGH);
digitalWrite(res, LOW);
for( band = 0; band < 7; band++ )
{
digitalWrite(strobe,LOW); // strobe pin on the shield - kicks the IC up to the next band
delayMicroseconds(30); //
left[band] = analogRead(0); // store left band reading
right[band] = analogRead(1); // ... and the right
digitalWrite(strobe,HIGH);
}
}
void loop()
{
readMSGEQ7();
// display values of left channel on LCD
for( band = 0; band < 7; band++ )
{
lcd.setCursor(band,0);
if (left[band]>=895) { lcd.write(7); } else
if (left[band]>=767) { lcd.write(6); } else
if (left[band]>=639) { lcd.write(5); } else
if (left[band]>=511) { lcd.write(4); } else
if (left[band]>=383) { lcd.write(3); } else
if (left[band]>=255) { lcd.write(2); } else
if (left[band]>=127) { lcd.write(1); } else
if (left[band]>=0) { lcd.write(0); }
}
// display values of right channel on LCD
for( band = 0; band < 7; band++ )
{
lcd.setCursor(band+9,0);
if (right[band]>=895) { lcd.write(7); } else
if (right[band]>=767) { lcd.write(6); } else
if (right[band]>=639) { lcd.write(5); } else
if (right[band]>=511) { lcd.write(4); } else
if (right[band]>=383) { lcd.write(3); } else
if (right[band]>=255) { lcd.write(2); } else
if (right[band]>=127) { lcd.write(1); } else
if (right[band]>=0) { lcd.write(0); }
}
}
If you’ve been reading through my tutorials there isn’t anything new to worry about. And now for the demo, with sound -
That would look great on the side of a Walkman, however it’s a bit small. Let’s scale it up by using a Freetronics Dot Matrix Display - you may recall these from Clock One. For some background knowledge check the review here. Don’t forget to use a suitable power supply for the DMD – 5 V at 4 A will do nicely. The DMD contains 16 rows of 32 LEDs. This gives us twice the “resolution” to display each band level if desired. The display style is subjective, so for this example we’ll use a single column of LEDs for each frequency band, with a blank column between each one.
We use a lot of line-drawing statements to display the levels, and clear the DMD after each display. With this and the previous sketches, there could be room for efficiency – however I write these with the beginner in mind. Here’s the sketch (download):
// Example 48.3 - tronixstuff.com/tutorials > chapter 48 - 30 Jan 2013 // MSGEQ7 spectrum analyser shield with a Freetronics DMD
// for DMD #include // for DMD #include // SPI.h must be included as DMD is written by SPI (the IDE complains otherwise) #include #include "SystemFont5x7.h" // keep next two lines if you want to add some text #include "Arial_black_16.h" DMD dmd(1, 1); // creates instance of DMD to refer to in sketch
void ScanDMD() // necessary interrupt handler for refresh scanning of DMD
{
dmd.scanDisplayBySPI();
}
int strobe = 4; // strobe pins on digital 4 int res = 5; // reset pins on digital 5
int left[7]; // store band values in these arrays int right[7];
int band;
void setup()
{
// for DMD
//initialize TimerOne's interrupt/CPU usage used to scan and refresh the display
Timer1.initialize( 5000 ); //period in microseconds to call ScanDMD. Anything longer than 5000 (5ms) and you can see flicker.
Timer1.attachInterrupt( ScanDMD ); //attach the Timer1 interrupt to ScanDMD which goes to dmd.scanDisplayBySPI()
dmd.clearScreen( true ); //true is normal (all pixels off), false is negative (all pixels on)
// for MSGEQ7
pinMode(res, OUTPUT); // reset
pinMode(strobe, OUTPUT); // strobe
digitalWrite(res,LOW); // reset low
digitalWrite(strobe,HIGH); //pin 5 is RESET on the shield
}
void readMSGEQ7()
// Function to read 7 band equalizers
{
digitalWrite(res, HIGH);
digitalWrite(res, LOW);
for( band = 0; band < 7; band++ )
{
digitalWrite(strobe,LOW); // strobe pin on the shield - kicks the IC up to the next band
delayMicroseconds(30); //
left[band] = analogRead(0); // store left band reading
right[band] = analogRead(1); // ... and the right
digitalWrite(strobe,HIGH);
}
}
void loop()
{
int xpos;
readMSGEQ7();
dmd.clearScreen( true );
// display values of left channel on DMD
for( band = 0; band < 7; band++ )
{
xpos = (band*2)+1;
if (left[band]>=895) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 1, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=767) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 3, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=639) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 5, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=511) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 7, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=383) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 9, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=255) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 11, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=127) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 13, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (left[band]>=0) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 15, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); }
}
// display values of right channel on DMD
for( band = 0; band < 7; band++ )
{
xpos = (band*2)+18;
if (right[band]>=895) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 1, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=767) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 3, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=639) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 5, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=511) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 7, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=383) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 9, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=255) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 11, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=127) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 13, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); } else
if (right[band]>=0) { dmd.drawLine( xpos, 15, xpos, 15, GRAPHICS_NORMAL ); }
}
}
… and here it is in action:
Conclusion
At this point you have the knowledge to use the MSGEQ7 ICs to create some interesting spectrum analysers for entertainment and visual appeal – now you just choose the type of display enjoy the results.
Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our Google Group – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other – and we can all learn something.
Moving Forward with Arduino – Chapter 15 – RFID Introduction
Learn how to use RFID readers with your Arduino. In this instalment we use an RDM630 or RDM6300 RFID reader. If you have an Innovations ID-12 or ID-20 RFID reader, we have a different tutorial.
This is part of a series originally titled “Getting Started with Arduino!” by John Boxall – A tutorial on the Arduino universe. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here.
Updated 21/02/2013
RFID – radio frequency identification. Some of us have already used these things, and they have become part of everyday life. For example, with electronic vehicle tolling, door access control, public transport fare systems and so on. It sounds complex – but isn’t.
To explain RFID for the layperson, we can use a key and lock analogy. Instead of the key having a unique pattern, RFID keys hold a series of unique numbers which are read by the lock. It is up to our software (sketch) to determine what happens when the number is read by the lock. The key is the tag, card or other small device we carry around or have in our vehicles. We will be using a passive key, which is an integrated circuit and a small aerial. This uses power from a magnetic field associated with the lock. Here are some key or tag examples:
In this tutorial we’ll be using 125 kHz tags – for example. To continue with the analogy our lock is a small circuit board and a loop aerial. This has the capability to read the data on the IC of our key, and some locks can even write data to keys. Here is our reader (lock) example:
As you can see from the 5mm graph paper, the circuitry is quite small, and the loop is somewhat fragile. For installation and use, it would be wise to mount the loop aerial inside something strong and protective.
Our use for the RFID equipment is to have our sketch make a decision based on the unique tag number. For example, it could be used as a switch to turn on and off something, perhaps an alarm system or a computer. It could control an electric door strike (lock), or activate a series of lights to one’s personal preference. The possibilities are only limited by your imagination. I hope that with your existing knowledge you can implement this RFID equipment into your next prototype or product.
Example 15.1
First of all, let’s do a basic test – what happens when we read a tag? To do this we need to connect our reader to the Arduino or compatible board, and see what comes out when we read a card. The connections are quite simple:
Note that all the GND pins are connected together.
Upload the following sketch (download):
// Example 15.1
int data1 = 0;
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(9600);
}
void loop()
{
if (Serial.available() > 0) {
// read the incoming number on serial RX
data1 = Serial.read();
// display incoming number
Serial.println(data1, DEC);
}
}
You may need to remove the wire from the RFID reader to Arduino before uploading the sketch, then replacing it after the upload. From the reader data sheet.pdf (our version is the TTL model), the reader sends out serial data from the TX pin at 9600 bps. We will read that data using the serial input (digital pin zero on the board) and display it on the serial monitor box to see what it looks like. The LED activates (rather dimly) when reading is taking place. Here is the sketch to use.
Once the sketch has been uploaded, open your serial monitor box, and wave a tag over the antenna. You should have a reading similar to the video below, however your tag number will be different.
Excellent – simple numbers that we can work with. For example, one of my tags returns: 2,51,69,48,48,49,65,51,53,70,50,69,51,3 and another returns 2,51,67,48,48,67,69,49,48,68,53,51,55,3. Note that both start with 2 and end with 3, so the unique tag details are the 12 integers between the 2 and 3. One could read the data as characters or hexadecimal numbers by altering the data type in the sketch from int to byte, but for simplicity I am working in integers.
Now all we need to do is fashion sketches to recognise the tag number(s) we want to use, and perform an action based on which tag number is used (or do something when a tag is read, but not the tag you want).
Example 15.2
In the following example, (download) the sketch reads the 14 integers returned from the card reader when a tag is swiped. These integers are placed into a fourteen element array, which is then compared against arrays holding the numbers my “allowed” tags. If an allowed tag is read, the green LED comes on, if a disallowed tag is read, the red LED comes on. Of course you could have the digital outputs controlling other things using a switching transistor or a relay. Below is the schematic:
And a short video in action:
Excellent – now we are getting close to something useful. The example above could make a simple door control, or an over-engineered cookie jar.
Now for some more practical uses of RFID and Arduino. In the past we have worked with real time in many chapters, and also have stored data using a microSD card shield…
Example 15.3
We will build on our previous example by adding time and date logging for all accesses to the system, successful or not. This could be used again for door access, payroll calculations as a modern-day punch-clock, or even a simple logging device to see what time the children arrive home when you aren’t around to check. So we will need a microSD shield, and some sort of DS1307 breakout board or shield.
When using more than one shield together, be mindful of the pins you will need to use. For example, my DS1307 shield uses analogue 4 and 5 (for I2C interface), and the microSD shield uses digital 10 to 13.
The sketch for this example is quite simple – the good thing about programming for Arduino is that just like the hardware shields, sketch procedures and functions can be very modular and reused quite easily. If you are unsure about the microSD shield, please read my instructional review. Most of the code can be copied from that microSD shield article’s demonstration sketch, which I have done for this example. The sketch writes the time, date, tag number, and read status (accepted/rejected).
However there is one caveat when using the microSD shield – the file needs to be closed before the card can be removed for examination. In practical use, our RFID system would be usually on most of the time, so a method will needed to activate the card write function. This has been implemented with a function bossMode() that is called when a certain tag is read – one may call this the supervisor’s card. Once this particular tag is read, the file is annotated as closed, reading stops, and the LEDs blink alternately when it is safe to remove the card. A simple reset after the card is reinserted will start the reading again.
Here is the sketch. The schematic is the same as Example 15.2, with a few simple additions – the use of the microSD card shield, and the DS1307 real time clock shield. If you are using a DS1307 breakout board wired in separately, please use the following schematic as a guide:
Now here is a short video clip, with the addition of the ‘boss mode’ shutdown sequence:
And finally, here is an example of the text file that was produced from a recent test run:
As you can see, it is easy to reproduce expensive time-keeping systems with our own equipment and some time. We have some RFID projects in … the project section.
Have fun and keep checking into tronixstuff.com. Why not follow things on twitter, Google+, subscribe for email updates or RSS using the links on the right-hand column, or join our Google Group – dedicated to the projects and related items on this website. Sign up – it’s free, helpful to each other – and we can all learn something.































